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In the early years of Colombia's civil conflict, adventurers could still move through the Gap by foot, motorbike, or four-wheeler.The first vehicular crossing was achieved in 1960 by a Jeep and Land Rover expedition, at an average speed of 220 yards per hour over 136 days.The absence of any controlling authority in this wilderness has given free rein to armed groups.

In the eighties, a British adventure travel company offered multiweek treks through the Gap.It has long defied the advance of colonists, road builders, and would-be developers.The Gap's legend as a black zone is steeped in bloodshed and tragedy.As we continue upriver together, it seems just as well that they are ignorant of the dangers.The Pan-American Highway network is a remarkable feat of engineering that runs about 19,000 miles from Prudhoe Bay, Alaska, to Ushuaia, Argentina, with just one break in the pavement: the Darién Gap.

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